Leroy - Nuit St. Georges Aux Vignerondes 2005No name enlivens and ignites a discussion of Burgundy as quickly as Madame Lalou Bize Leroy. She is unrelenting in every way, from her personality to how she runs her business to the quality of the wine in the bottle. The Leroy family's 50% ownership of Domaine Romane Conti gave Lalou ample ability to amass the deepest and most revered cellar in Burgundy during the past six decades. Speculation is rampant about its size and holdings; only one person

This is a harmonious 1996 Margaux and yet it feels conservative and straight-laced on the tobacco-infused finish

if attractively perfumed

this blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon

A flamboyant aroma of black raspberry confiture

and vanilla

Richebourg Grand Cru

the 1999 summer drought significantly stressed the vine until several short but frequent rains arrived early September

ripe 2002 and the powerful but racy 2008

whereas on the palate this is the quintessence of finesse

From this crazy dream was created a champagne at the height of winemaking

James Suckling

aged on lees for 10 years and followed by 2 years of bottle ageing after disgorgement